The Alpinist 2021

In a revealing interview with Tim Ferris, Alex Honnold, the renowned American free solo rock climber and subject of the acclaimed 2018 documentary Free Solo, shares who currently inspires him in the climbing world. He highlights Marc-Andre Leclerc, a Canadian rock and alpine climber, whose low-key approach makes him relatively unknown. Honnold emphasizes Leclerc’s purity in climbing, noting that “He’s just going out and climbing for himself in such a pure style.”

Marc, a master of alpine solo climbs, fearlessly tackles some of the toughest peaks and faces without assistance. In 2015, filmmaker Peter Mortimer, who also has a background in climbing, discovers a blog about Leclerc, who, at just 23 years old, executed a solo climb of The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre, a remarkable achievement that showcases his prowess. Mortimer, inspired by his admiration for legendary climber Derek Hersey, sees in Leclerc the same spirit of adventure and risk.

Climbing was once considered a rebellious act, but with its rise to Olympic status, it now has a massive following. Mortimer travels to the heart of Canada’s climbing culture in Squamish, British Columbia, to meet Leclerc, who is unaccustomed to the spotlight and the presence of a film crew. His motivation derives not from fame or accolades, but from a genuine love for climbing and the adventures it brings. Marc, at a young age, chose to live the life of a climber, even living under a stairwell and later moving into a tent in the forest with his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, showcasing their dedication to a climber’s lifestyle that eschews material comforts for the sake of passion.

While Leclerc breaks Honnold’s speed record on The Grand Wall, he truly yearns for more significant achievements in solo alpine climbing. Although he enjoys the thrill of free solo rock climbing, Marc is deeply connected to the spiritual essence of his sport. He met Brette during his post-high school party days and credits her for guiding him towards climbing.

Alpinism represents the zenith of climbing, where not just the ascent but the manner in which it is done matters deeply. Solo climbing is an art, balancing survival against the backdrop of mortal danger, where countless climbers have tragically lost their lives due to the inherent risks. Mortimer’s team follows Leclerc to Canmore for ice climbing, an endeavor fraught with peril as ice can collapse unexpectedly. In a single day, Marc solo climbs both icy and mixed routes, including notorious challenges that capture the local climbing community’s attention.

As time goes on, Marc’s restlessness grows, leading to months of silence that frustrate Mortimer. Eventually, they find him in the Ghost River Wilderness Area, emphasized by Brette’s insights on Marc’s disregard for the attention he could receive from media or the significance of his climbs.

April 2016 marks a significant milestone as Leclerc achieves the first winter solo ascent of the Emperor Face of Mount Robson, but this momentous occasion comes with tension—he chooses not to inform Mortimer’s crew about this extraordinary feat, stating, “It wouldn’t be a solo to me if somebody was there.” Afterward, he invites them to film his alpine climbing technique without relying on any communication device, adding another layer of risk to his already adventurous lifestyle.

The climbing community is elated, yet they remain acutely aware of the immense dangers. Months later, in Patagonia, Marc embarks on his long-awaited dream to ascend Torre Egger. With the mountain notorious for harsh winter conditions, he allows only one cameraman, his friend Austin Siadak, to document parts of the climb, completing the summit push alone. After a storm halts his progress and forces a retreat, Marc’s determination does not waver. He returns and, without additional supplies, achieves the first-ever winter solo ascent in an astounding 21 hours.

As Mortimer begins stitching together the documentary, tragedy strikes in March 2018 when Brette Harrington alerts him that Leclerc and his climbing partner Ryan Johnson have disappeared while descending the Mendenhall Towers in Alaska. Mortimer rushes to Alaska with Brette and Leclerc’s family to search for clues. Unfortunately, the discovery of their ropes in avalanche snow leads to the grim conclusion that both climbers are likely lost, with their bodies never recovered. The community mourns Leclerc, holding a memorial in Squamish months after the heartbreak, forever remembering his adventurous spirit and indomitable passion for climbing.