Big Wednesday 1978

In the scorching heat of summer 1962, three carefree individuals embarked on a thrilling journey shaped by their love for surfing: Matt Johnson, a rebellious spirit, Jack Barlow, the voice of reason, and Leroy “The Masochist” Smith, whose nickname reveals much about his troubled psyche. Their adventures unfolded against the backdrop of the turbulent 1960s, where the vibrancy of youth contrasted sharply with the harsh realities of the world around them.

As these friends rode the waves of adolescence, they found themselves navigating the precarious waters of draft dodging during the Vietnam War in 1965. They resorted to a myriad of creative tactics to evade enlistment, including feigning insanity, claiming homosexuality, and weaving elaborate tales of medical ailments. Each attempt reflected their struggle to hold onto the carefree days of surf trips and beach parties while grappling with the impending responsibilities of adulthood.

A pivotal moment occurred in 1968, when the shadow of war claimed one of their own, forcing the remaining friends to face the stark truth that their innocent days were coming to an end. This tragedy marked a turning point, forever altering their perception of life and maturity.

After years apart, the trio came together for the “Great Swell of ‘74,” an event symbolizing their evolution from exuberant youth to weathered maturity. As they stood together, gazing out at the fading waves, they were enveloped by a powerful realization: the exhilarating decade of the 1960s, filled with hope and rebellion, had transformed into a sobering new reality where the innocence of their youth lingered only as a distant echo.