In the Footsteps of Marco Polo 2008

In In The Footsteps of Marco Polo, the documentary chronicles the remarkable journey of Denis Belliveau and Francis O’Donnell, two adventurers from Queens, New York, who embarked on an extraordinary expedition to retrace the 25,000-mile route taken by the legendary explorer Marco Polo. Their mission was not only to travel only by land and sea—eschewing airplanes—but also to validate the authenticity of Polo’s detailed account of his travels across Asia and the Middle East, as documented in The Travels of Marco Polo, often referred to as The Book of the Marvels of the World.

Starting their expedition in Venice, Italy, the duo then set sail to Israel, where they visited Jerusalem. There, during the Eastern Orthodox Christian celebration of Easter, they obtained holy oil from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, mirroring Polo’s own spiritual journey. Their route then took them to Turkey, where they landed in Ayaş, a small fishing village that Polo’s time had transformed from a bustling port into a quieter locale. Their presence in various local newspapers helped them forge connections with the communities they encountered along the way, offering a glimpse into the diverse cultures they were immersing themselves in.

However, their journey faced immediate geopolitical barriers, notably when they attempted to enter Iran but were barred from doing so by the Iranian government. Undeterred, Belliveau and O’Donnell decided to follow the trail of Niccolo Polo, Marco Polo’s father, and Maffeo Polo, his uncle, toward Bukhara, aiming to visit Iran on their return journey, since the Polo family had opened up the land routes to China, famously known as the Silk Road, years before Marco’s own travels. In Uzbekistan, legal requirements posed additional obstacles, as visa restrictions in each city had to be meticulously managed.

One of the most tumultuous parts of their journey occurred in Afghanistan, where they initially faced resistance from the Federal Security Service—successor to the Soviet KGB—at the Friendship Bridge. After waiting nearly three weeks, they managed to cross by forging visas and paying a bribe of $100. The stark contrast between the modern Soviet remnants and the underdeveloped, electricity-starved landscapes of Afghanistan was striking. Inspired by Marco Polo’s own diplomatic strategies, the explorers were provided with a golden paiza—an official tablet from Kublai Khan—granting them safe passage and support during their travels through hostile territories. With the aid of heavily armed bodyguards, they faced danger firsthand when their group was ambushed and briefly held hostage by ethnic Hazaras, descendants of a tribe attacked by Polo’s caravan centuries earlier.

The duo then traveled to the remote Wakhan Corridor in northeastern Afghanistan, a region described as the crown jewel of their quest. According to the local leader, Shah Sayid Muhammad Ishmael, they became the first Westerners to traverse this legendary corridor in generations. Their journey continued across the Pamir Mountains into Tajikistan, where they traveled on horseback along snowy paths lined with structures made of sheep horns, following Marco Polo’s detailed descriptions while respecting local customs and traditions.

In China, their first significant city was Kashgar, where they prepared for an intense six-week trek across the unforgiving Taklamakan Desert, using camels and horses for transportation. When they arrived in Dunhuang in 1994, after months of arduous travel, they finally enjoyed the comforts of a shower and a proper hotel room—luxuries they had long been denied. They visited sites described by Polo, such as the Reclining Buddha in Zhangye, documented their experiences in the city, and immersed themselves in the architecture and culture.

Their journey through Mongolia had them living in traditional gers—circular felt-covered dwellings—and sampling local delicacies like fermented mare’s milk, or airag, along with various dairy products common among nomadic tribes. Traveling throughout China, they visited nearly 200 locations that Polo had described, including regions like Yunnan and Tibet. Continuing their exploration, they eventually sailed from Hong Kong on a container ship to Sumatra, where they lived with the Mentawai people and O’Donnell received a tribal tattoo, embracing local customs.

From there, they moved into Sri Lanka, known during Polo’s time as Ceylon, and then traveled overland into India. In Madras, they documented the ancient practices of astrology that Polo had also observed. Their expedition in Asia revealed the accuracy of Polo’s detailed notes and descriptions of the diverse cultures, landscapes, and peoples he encountered.

Despite initial setbacks, including a rejection at the Iranian border, the adventurers were eventually granted a one-month visa—becoming the first Americans to receive such permission since the Iranian Revolution of 1979. They were warmly welcomed and experienced Iranian hospitality firsthand, a culmination of their determined effort to follow Polo’s route through Persia, as the region was known.

Their return to Venice in March 1995 was marked by celebration and grandeur. They were carried down the grand canal in a theatrical regatta of gondolas, ending in St Mark’s Square amidst the ringing of church bells in honor of their achievement. The Venetian mayor awarded them the keys to the city, and the next day, they visited the Biblioteca Nazionale, where they viewed Marco Polo’s last will and testament—an experience long denied before their historic journey.

In The Footsteps of Marco Polo captures the spirit of adventure, perseverance, and curiosity, illustrating how Belliveau and O’Donnell managed to bring the stories of one of history’s greatest explorers into the modern world through their meticulous travel and dedication. Their journey not only sought to verify Polo’s accounts but also celebrated the rich historic tapestry of cultures and civilizations along the legendary Silk Road.